Bellingham & Whatcom County Roofing Contractor

Our answer

This close to saltwater we spec 24-gauge steel with a Kynar 500 / PVDF coating rated for coastal exposure, plus corrosion-resistant clips and stainless fasteners. Standard 26-gauge builder panels and cheap fasteners corrode within a few years in the salt zone. We'll walk your specific exposure at Blaine, Birch Bay, or Semiahmoo and pick a system engineered for it.

Our answer

If the deck and the majority of the field shakes are still sound, a targeted repair is usually the right call and far cheaper. We'll pull a few shakes to check the underlayment and fasteners first. Open Lynden farm country takes the brunt of the Fraser/Nooksack outflow winds, so if the cedar is broadly at end-of-life we'll show you the photos and be straight with you rather than patch a roof that'll fail again next winter.

Our answer

Moss itself rarely means instant replacement — the question is what's under it. We'll do a low-pressure clean and treatment (never a pressure washer, which strips granules), check the shingles and deck for soft spots, and install copper or zinc ridge strips so it doesn't come back. Shaded, tree-lined Bellingham lots grow it fast, so if we find rot underneath we'll show you exactly where.

Our answer

We plan around exactly that. We watch the forecast and tear off only what we can dry-in the same day, so your deck is never sitting open to the rain. Summer books up fastest, so the move is to lock a free inspection now and get on the calendar. Call and we'll give you the current lead time.

Our answer

Yes — we roof the foothills regularly and plan around the snow. We schedule installs for a clear, dry stretch, stage materials so the crew isn't idle, and build in snow guards, ice-and-water shield, and the ventilation a snow-load roof needs. Tell us the roof size and access and we'll map the timing around the weather window.

Our answer

Water almost never enters directly above the stain — it travels along the deck or a rafter before it drips. Common culprits are flashing, a cracked plumbing boot, or a valley uphill of the stain. We track the actual entry point, fix that, and document it with photos so you're not paying to chase the wrong spot.

Our answer

Pooling plus seam leaks usually means the wrong system or bad slope detailing. For low-slope we install torch-down (modified bitumen) or heat-welded TPO/PVC single-ply, and we correct the slope-to-drain so water actually leaves the roof. Fully welded seams are the key — that's where flat roofs fail in our wet, freezing winters up the Nooksack valley.

Our answer

Yes — real-estate roof reports are something we do a lot of. We inspect the roof, flashing, and accessible deck, photograph everything, and give you a written report you can hand your agent and lender. We prioritize these so they don't hold up your closing, anywhere in Whatcom County.

Our answer

That's the right question up here. Bare metal sheds snow fast, so on foothill roofs we lay out snow guards and snow retention to release it gradually, keep it off entries and walkways, and protect the gutters. Paired with ice-and-water shield at the eaves, a metal roof handles heavy snow load beautifully — it just needs to be detailed for it.

Our answer

Exposed, open sites need a tighter fastening schedule and proper edge-metal detailing — that's where uplift starts. On metal we increase clip density at the perimeter and ridge; on shingles we hand-seal the perimeter courses and use a higher wind-rated product. Out on the flats toward Cherry Point and Sandy Point it's a detailing problem, and it's exactly the kind of exposure we build for.

Our answer

That's an emergency and we treat it like one. We prioritize getting a tarp and temporary weatherproofing on to stop the water first, then schedule the permanent repair and document the damage for your insurance. As a local Whatcom County crew we can usually be out for a same-day or next-day tarp. Call (360) 483-1333 now.

Our answer

Sealant is a band-aid — skylights leak because the flashing kit is wrong, old, or was never step-flashed into the roof properly. The real fix is to re-flash the skylight into the roofing system with the correct kit and, if the units themselves are shot, replace them. Done right, it stops leaking without a tube of caulk every fall.